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Modamoda's Dye Shampoo: Banned but Eyeing Market Return

Defining Modamoda Shampoo


Modamoda Shampoo, launched in Korea in 2021, was designed to naturally dye your hair through regular washing. The product's creator, Modamoda's CEO, was inspired by how bananas darken over time. 

The shampoo promised to avoid harmful dye ingredients such as PPDA, 5-diamine, and toluene sulfate. Instead, it was marketed as a 'self-coloring' shampoo, offering a fresh approach to hair color.



Modamoda's Success Story


In just five months, Modamoda generated domestic sales of 32 billion won and international sales of 28 billion won, becoming a sensation. The product's popularity even prompted criticism from rival companies, who accused Modamoda of exaggerated advertising. 

In March 2022, the company made an agreement with Target to sell their product in about 1900 stores across the U.S. Their success was further confirmed when they topped the Cosmoprof North America Awards 2022, standing out amongst 1,170 hair brands.



The Hurdle: THB Ingredient


Despite the success, a challenge emerged due to the presence of 1-2-4-THB (1-2-4-trihydroxybenzene) in Modamoda's formulation. The KMFDS moved to ban the ingredient due to potential genetic toxicity, similar to a ban already implemented by the European Union (EU). The EU's SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) identified THB as an allergen with potential genetic toxicity risk in December 2020.




Korea Food and Drug Administration vs. Modamoda


Publicly, the KFDS accused Modamoda of misrepresenting the product's safety, leading to a contentious dialogue. However, Modamoda pushed back, claiming it was the victim of false narratives.


U.S. Food and Drug Administration's Response


The U.S. MFDS, like its European counterpart, is conducting a regulatory review of 1-2-4-THB due to its potential genetic toxicity risk.


Modamoda's Approach


In response to these regulatory challenges, Modamoda conducted additional experiments. They found the shampoo to have weak genetic toxicity in the Ames Test, a standard assessment for mutagenicity. Modamoda plans to submit these results to the KFDS.



Looking Ahead


Modamoda is also investigating the product's long-term effects on the human body. While the company can manufacture products without THB, it fears this could compromise the shampoo's color development capabilities.


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